As the seasons change with the leaves, seersucker and summer pastels are tucked away for hibernation while the argyle patterns of winter once again breathe in the cool city air, often protected by cashmere or wool coats. But something is horribly wrong. Lost and misguided, young people mismatch what shirts to wear with their sweaters. Spread collars are worn with crew-neck sweaters. Undershirts protrude from v-neck sweaters. Hipsters persist with their general ugliness.
I'll be generous and chalk it up to the recent financial crisis. We can't all work at Blackstone, Lazard, or Citadel. Those who haven't lost their jobs yet are worried about the future, and those who already have get a pass--grudgingly. Maybe everyone else is despondent over the deathblow that has been dealt to high finance, realizing the glory days of excess are over for now. More likely, though, is that they don't know any better. And ignorance, my friend, is the worst shame of all.
Thus, a recap of what your parents should have taught you (assuming they loved you).
Button Collars - referred to as "button-down" or "sport shirts," these hail from a time when people dressed respectably for athletic events. Harvard, Yale, Princeton and Columbia were elite football schools, people actually played polo (rather than merely wearing shirts bearing an insignia of the sport, now sported by outlet shoppers making <$40k/yr), and worthwhile professions were still WASP-dominated. In those halcyon days, people had to button down their collars to keep them in place while engaging in those activities. Today, the look lives on, but often begs to be put out of its misery by the tactless, public-school educated boors who complement it with a tie.
The correct way to wear a sport shirt is without a tie. It should be worn with chinos, and sometimes with a sport jacket. Problematically, people have tried to blend this look with proper dress and wear ties with these button-down collars. I'm sure this is perfectly acceptable in St. Louis. If you sell used cars. To anyone else, though, this decision belies the image of sophistication the wearer seeks to present.
Spread Collars - broadly, all collars without buttons. These collars come in a variety of cuts, mostly european, and most popularly Italian and French (but with a substantial number of Oxford collar holdouts). These are to be worn only with a necktie. Wearing a sweater over one is acceptable, but a necktie is necessary.
On the other hand, you can wear a spread collar without a necktie. But then you'd just be guido trash. It could be as innocent as slipping up one day before going to class, or relaxing after a day in the office, but the instant the necktie fully comes off, you move from being a respectable member of society to being a blowout haircut, exposed-chest, glowing orange, roided out parasite. Anyone who matters will watch you, know this, and end your career upon seeing such behavior.
Now, for something more advanced -- the 300-level course, if you will.
Barrel Cuffs - Sleeve cuffs that end with a button. While two buttons are often employed to let the user select cuff tightness, there should be no more than two button holes. The only time you need multiple button holes on a sleeve is when you're wearing a sport coat or blazer. (Yes, your coats should have buttons that button, not the pre-sewn crap most class climbers buy, untailored, from Macy's. Breeding tells.) These are acceptable in any environment, although generally out of favor for business dress in London and Paris. I prefer these for interviews as well, since it's more conservative and puts focus on you. As an aside, when I remember someone on the basis of what they wore, it's a bad sign for the interviewee.
French Cuffs - Only wear these when donning a tie. French cuffs will only be mated with a spread collar. As for cufflinks, I prefer silk balls that hold the cuff together, as opposed to cufflinks. The links look better, but the sound of endless clanking against a keyboard can get old when modeling in excel all day. Clearly, standards change if you're management, or meeting with a client.
Wearing this cuff without a tie, and worse yet, with an undone top button, revealing a crew-neck undershirt, is inappropriate. While I'm sure the sophistication of French cuffs alone are sure to make the ladies who struggled to break four digits on the (old) SAT swoon, nobody worth fooling will be had.
As a final plea, in the tenor of the recent election and its undertones of "hope" and "change," please, for the good of the country, buy bespoke shirts. And if you don't know what they are, get the hell off this blog.